Month: May 2019

  • Day 9: Jim Crow’s ghost

    Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA After some great Louisianan coffee, said a fond goodbye to Ethan and Allison. Into Georgia – State #10! I drove to my Savannah hotel, the Hampton Inn Historic District, an old building beautifully renovated. Savannah seems like a much more livable city then Charleston, or is it just that the…

  • Day 8: Would you like to meet my bees?

    Georgetown, SC to Charleston, SC 1,000 miles since leaving New York. Paid a visit to my friend Ethan, an old colleague from the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s web site. Really glad to see him. He got older. Well, it’s been 15 years. Drove downtown to visit Fort Sumter, where the Civil War started. Fort Sumter…

  • Day 7: Carolinas on my mind

    Pine Knoll Shores, NC to Georgetown, SC Wilmington, NC I got there around 2 pm, the temperature hovering in the high 90s. People were scarce on the streets, other than a handful of tourists like me. I went to a riverfront park and found some shade, but there were two menacing homeless people who had…

  • Day 6: The big right turn

    Kill Devil Hills, NC to Pine Knoll Shores, NC I left the commercialized part of the Outer Banks for the unspoiled Cape Hatteras National Seashore. I went to the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse visitor center and museum. The lighthouse itself is beautiful, with spiral black and white stripes (referred to as a “daymark” by lighthouse hipsters).…

  • Day 5: The first flight

    Norfolk, VA to Kill Devil Hills, NC Breakfast at Charlie’s Cafe in Norfolk. The real deal. “Season of the Witch” playing to add to the time-warp vibe. Counter with the grill right behind it. In North Carolina, State #8! Visited the Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills. It’s windy, which is why the…

  • Day 4: Thank you, France

    Yorktown, VA to Norfolk, VA Though I had read some of the history, I learned at the Yorktown battle site that we have France to thank for our independence. Just before the battle, France sent both naval and land forces. We love hearing the Yorktown story because we know how it ends. People did suffer,…

  • Day 3: Where’s everybody in Richmond?

    Fredericksburg, VA to Yorktown, VA Cold Harbor The Cold Harbor battle, May 31 – June 12, 1864, was part of what’s called the Overland Campaign. The battle was a Confederate victory. But at this point in the war, Grant’s aim was to destroy the Confederate armies, not to hold territory. Grant promised to “hammer continuously”…

  • Day 2: Dead authors, DC suits

    Elkton, MD to Fredericksburg, VA Visiting Scott and Zelda’s Grave For a while, I’d wanted to visit Scott Fitzgerald’s grave to pay tribute to the great writer. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald are buried in Rockville, MD, in the graveyard of St. Mary’s Church (Catholic). Their only connection with Rockville is that Fitzgerald’s father was born…

  • Cross-USA Road Trip Day 1: Geography geeking in Delaware

    New York City to Elkton, MD I got on the subway to go to pick up the car, and I had the feeling Paul Theroux did at the beginning of his trip to Patagonia – I am getting on the subway, but while most people here are commuting within the city, I am going to…